I wrote this piece on “What trail shoes to buy” some years ago – I’ve embellished on this below.

First, road shoes are fine for your first short trail run but thereafter trail shoes are better. Road shoes are made from a softer sole compound so they get shredded by rocks and also their upper is more maleable and not as supportive. It’s made for straight-line foot placement. So, when you step squiffy on a rock, the upper goes one way and sole goes another with foot shifting inside = twisted ankle.

There’s no best trail shoe. Your shoe choice depends depends on which model most suits your feet. What is good for your friend may not work for you.

Take your socks with you when you go to buy shoes; you must fit shoes with the socks that you prefer to wear. You may like cushion-foot socks but the ones they have at the store for you to use may be thin socks. You won’t get the right fit.

And, on walking into the store, keep an open mind. Ignore brand name, colours, appearance and styling of the shoe. They all look the same when covered in mud. Different brands and models have different shaped lasts (the shape for your foot). Some are good for broad feet or narrow feet or low arches or high arches or wide toes. Ignore the brand name, price and model – it is not important. My favourite trail shoe is a hard-to-get, lower-down-in-the-range shoe; I prefer it to the models higher up in the price and technology offering.

Don’t be fixed on being a certain size shoe. I’m a size 7 in normal fashion shoes, a UK8.5 in most all of my trail and road shoes (Adidas and Asics) but I’m a UK8 in Salomon Crossmax and UK7.5 in Hi-Tec Infinity. Ladies, try on mens shoes too. All of my shoes except for the Salomon Crossmax are guys shoes. Start with your usual size and try the half sizes or full sizes around it for comparison and to be sure you’re getting the right fit.

Shoes that are too big will see your heel lifting out of the cup, your foot sliding forward-back in the shoe and your toes slamming against the toebox. BAD. Too small will also mean hammered toenails, swollen feet, blisters and discomfort. Your big toe (or second toe, if it is longer) shouldn’t be touching the front of the shoe. Then, move your foot forward in the shoe so that your toes are right up at the top. Put your finger in behind your heel and see how much space there is here. You should be able to get your finger in – should be snug – not tight, not roomy.

What you’re looking for in fit is the following:

First, a good foot-in-feel. When you first put your foot into the shoe does your foot feel comfortable? At home? Remember to tie the laces properly. If you’re feeling any tight spots, squeezing, lumps or bumps, it is not the shoe for you. Shoes do not need to be worn in. It should feel right immediately.

Wiggle your toes. How much space is there in the toebox? Lots of air above your toes (step forward and bend toes – does the fabric of the toebox bunch over your toes?) Or are your toes a bit squished by the narrow fit?

Heel cup is another important one. Does the back come up too high and dig into your Achilles? Do the sides catch your ankle bones? When you walk in the shoes (put on both shoes and walk around) does your heel keep lifting out of the heel cup?

How does the shoe fit around your arch? A space below/around the arch makes an opportunity for movement and friction. I like the shoe to fit snuggly around my arch so that my foot doesn’t move around. This is a personal preference thing really.

Once the fit is good and your feet feel at home, them compare other elements – especially where there is more than one pair that you like.

Trail shoes should be neutral – though there are some anti-pronation / motion control types…). If you think about it, when you run off-road, your feet and ankles move left, right and all directions. You don’t want to prevent this so neutral is fine even for people who wear anti-pronation shoes on road. If you’ve got weak ankles – strengthen them with proprioception exercises and watch your foot placements. You’ll gain strength from regular off-road running. If you’ve had fractures, sprains, strains and operations, you also need to do the strengthening exercises but will probably require a brace or strapping initially. Speak to your physio or biokineticist. Twisted ankles are not the result of pronation vs neutral shoes; it is because of poor proprioception, weaknesses in the supporting structure and bad foot placements.

Compare the weight of the shoe to another. A person weighing 60kg will suit a lighter shoe than a 90kg runner.

Check out the lugs (tread) under the shoe. Does the shoe have flat tread, like a road shoe, or bigger lugs like a mountain bike tyre? For the most part it doesn’t matter too much, especially where you’re running on a variety of surfaces (dirt roads, rock trails, forest floors),  but generally you need some tread for grip and a smooth, flat sole just won’t cut it.

The upper… you’ll find a bunch of materials here that give the upper structure and support. It is way more firm than the upper on a road shoe and the fabrics used will be more abrasion resistant. If you run beach or sandy areas, favour shoes with smaller ‘holes’ in the fabric.

Look at the tongue. Is it sewn in with a ‘catch’ for trail debris like grass seeds and sticks? (this feature is kinda irrelevant if you run with gaiters). Is there a thing on the tongue to thread your laces through so that the tongue doesn’t move all over? How padded is the tongue? Does it put pressure on the top of your foot?  A different lacing pattern can help here although a really puffy tongue is unnecessary.

And then look at laces. Look at how far the holes go up – you generally don’t want laces too high, working into the bend of foot-shin. This can cause inflammation in lower shin because it restricts movement of the joint. Remember you can lace your shoes any way you want to so just check it out. Also look at the lace ‘eyes’. Are they fixed securely? Are they made from metal that can rust? And look at the lacing material. If the lace is a round cord, it will come undone, even with a double knot. Try it and see how securely it knots. A number of trail shoes like Salomon and Hi-Tec have easy-pull lasing systems. Many love ‘em; I prefer normal laces where I can adjust the tension across the top of my foot or change the lacing pattern. If my feet swell, I like to loosen my laces in places. You can’t do this with quick pull.

Consider your socks. Cushion-foot or thin socks? Again, this is personal preference but it will affect the size of your shoe so take the socks you prefer with you when you try on shoes. As with running, you need the centimetre between top of big toe and toebox.

So where do you go to try on shoes? Well, there’s no one-stop shop really so you have to try a number of stores.

Cape Union Mart, Cape Storm, DueSouth, ME Stores (in the Cape), Outdoor Warehouse, Sportsmans Warehouse, Trappers Trading plus independant  outdoor and running stores also stock trail shoes now too.

Brands, in alphabetical order, are Adidas, Asics, Hi-Tec, Inov-8, Merrell, Montrail, New Balance and Salomon. Quieter brands include Brooks, Columbia, K-Swiss, La Sportiva, Puma and Timberland. I don’t think that Nike nor Saucony still offer their trail range in SA.

Ultimately, specs and technology and popularity mean nothing. The only thing that counts is that the shoe feels right to you.

To eat or to share

Tasty treats offer comfort to both the provider and the recipient, who may be the same person. Team Cyanosis workhorse, Clinton Mackintosh, has a thing for Sally Williams Nougat. “I pack at least four,” he says. “I usually use them for rewards. I set a goal and when we reach it I have a nougat.”

George ‘The Baron’ Forder, an experienced racer, guides ARinKZN (www.arkzn.co.za) and presents a number of events. His treats vary and if you’re in a bad way he’ll probably share with you. “My special comfort snacks are for myself or for anyone deserving – someone with a real need,” the Pietermaritzburg resident explains.

For others, treats are not just gastronomic delights – they’re a way to communicate with their teammates. Navigator Clinton Hardenberg is the brains behind Pretoria’s weekly Dark ‘n Dirty mountain bike rides. He uses his sweets to slow down the pace so that he has time to think. “I always carry a packet of jelly babies – they’re especially important for those really dark nights or conditions of thick mist. When I stop the team and say, ‘Let’s sit down and eat some jelly babies’ the team knows that I am actually saying that we are really lost and that I need time to find us on the map again.”

And after days of bars, gels, treats and sandwiches, reward your ivories. “I’ve got one of those small airline toothbrush and toothpaste kits in my pack,” says Garry Morrison. “A session of dental hygiene mid-way through a race always leaves me feeling great.”

‘Maybe I’ll use it sometime’ stuff

For Forder, water purification tablets and anti-inflammatory pills are a security blanket. They live in his first aid kit and although they’re rarely used, he likes to know they’re there. Cable ties and duct tape are common ‘accessories’ that find their way into backpacks. Hardenberg keeps duct tape wound around his hiking pole for emergency use. These situations could include ITB strapping, blister patching and the repair of a mountain bike tyre sidewall. “And,” he jokes, “it even deals with team members who are subject to verbal and other forms of diarrhoea.”

For years, the backpack of Team Cyanosis’ captain – and arguably the country’s top navigator – Nicholas Mulder, has been home to a child’s inflatable swimming ring (for floating his bike across water), Swiss Army knife, superglue and elastic bands. “It’s all weird stuff, but maybe I’ll use these things one day,” he laughs.

Pack a spare

A compass is a navigator’s steering wheel. G4 Challenge campaigner Richard Kolbe always brings a spare, which he gives to another team member to carry. “I’ve lost three compasses in adventure racing; once while crossing a river and twice when hiking in thorny bush areas where the compass string often gets caught on branches. Fortunately, in all cases, we had a spare.”

Gettin’ practical

A Leatherman-type plier tool is really useful,” says Hardenberg. “In one race I used it to tighten map board bolts, to loosen a trekking pole that wouldn’t extend and to cut a piece of wire from a fence to fix a rear derailleur flywheel that had come apart.”

Lauren Goulding, captain of Team Dewpoint, an all-girls team, is never seen without a BUFF. “If the weather is hot I soak my BUFF in rivers to cool down and in the cold they’re excellent for warmth and to protect your face from the wind.”

The use of a towrope, for foot and bike stages, helps to up a team’s overall speed. “Sometimes I get to tow; other times it’s my turn to be assisted,” says Team Cyanosis member and ropes specialist Ryno Griesel. “This is the awesome nature of this sport; it is about being the fastest possible team and being open enough to accept assistance when you go through a bad patch so that you can be carried through to recovery.”

Non-elastic strapping tape, like duct tape, finds an obvious home on twisted ankles and foot blisters. Its application also extends to preventing chaffing. Kolbe has used it under his arms, on his shoulders where the backpack straps rub and other prevalent chafe zones. “It works amazingly well; just a bit difficult getting off,” he says laughing.

Other practical essentials include toilet paper, gaiters, an extra pair of socks in a waterproof bag, needle to drain any blisters, light wind shell, sunblock and an anti-chafe formula for chafing (which can be used in obvious places, as well as your feet, to prevent blisters).

Less is more?

There’s a fine line between packing too many things you’ll never use and being MacGyver, prepared for all eventualities. But before your pack gets bogged down with excessive stuff and weight, weigh up your trinkets with careful consideration, especially if you have a good number that have never been used. Let go. That said, what is most important is that you are reassured (physically and mentally) that what you’re carrying will contribute to your comfort and safety.

Author: Lisa de Speville | Published in Go Multi Magazine, Nov/Dec 2009

What you need

• 0.25 metres of 4-way stretch fabric (I use regular lycra)
• 1.5 metres ’panty’ elastic (it is about 0.8mm in width)
• 1 metre thicker elastic approx 15mm wide and thicker and stronger than the ‘panty; elastic (this goes around your ankle)
• 25cm length of velcro (2cm width)
• Box of pins, thread, sewing machine/needle, sharp scissors and possibly a friend with sewing skills…

STEP 1
Measure and draw this pattern on a piece of paper (you’ll need to join two sheets together).

NOTE: This is an average pattern size. Because lycra stretches it generally works for most shoes. BUT… there are differences in fabric, even lycra (thickness and stretchiness) and this makes the biggest difference. Sometimes these things are a bit of trail and error…

STEP 2

• Fold your fabric in half, with right sides facing (in lycra, the right side is a little more shiny). Make sure the fabric is flat – no bumps and kinks.
• Place your pattern on the fabric and pin around the edges.
• Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut out the fabric (double layer)

STEP 3
Start with one piece of fabric (it’s like maths… what you do to the one side, you do to the other).

• Pin a 45cm length of the thin panty elastic to the bottom of the fabric (against the wrong side). Tip: I pin one end first, then the other. Then, stretch the elastic (yes, lycra is a bit longer than the elastic) and pin in the centre. Then repeat inbetween the ends and the centre.
• Sew the elastic to the fabric

Tip: ALWAYS pin and/or tack before you machine sew. If you have an overlocking machine, use it. If you just have a straight sewing machine, then stitch in the middle.

STEP 4
You can leave the bottom as it is… but I prefer to hem it.

• Roll the stitched elastic base up, pin and straight sew. This makes a neat hem. (‘Panty’ elastic will now be ‘hidden’)

STEP 5

• Repeat the same pinning and sewing process with the thicker elastic. I check the length required by measuring around my own ankle according to how tight I’d like the top of the gaiter. You do want it snug, but not cutting off your circulation. Probably about 22-26cm.

STEP 6

• Fold the shape in half, right sides together. Join the sides. This is where an overlocking machine is really great. If you sew with a straight machine, or by hand, sew two rows. Remember to pin and/or tack first, before sewing.

 

• Cut a 9cm length of velcro – both the fluffy and hooked sides.
• Cut another 3cm length of velcro – also both sides
• Tack (rough stitching) the short fluffy length on top of the long hooked side – both facing up (not stuck together). Do the same to the other two pieces.

Now grab the gaiter you’ve made. With it turned inside out, flatten it so that the main seam lies centre. Tack the velcro (double layer part) to this bottom end; then sew by machine. I make an X pattern.

STEP 8

• Turn them right side out
• Slip your foot into them (velcro towards your toes)
• Now put your foot into your trail shoe. Tie your laces.
• Pull the back down over the heel. It won’t slip because the elastic keeps the tension. Then hook the velcro over-and-under your bottom-most lace and stick the fluffy side on to the hooked side. Et voila!

 Upper wear

A waterproof jacket should be your first purchase; be prepared to spend so that you buy right from the outset. A good jacket will survive many years and races.

My choice is an unlined jacket. They pack up small and they’re light in weight so you can keep it in your backpack throughout the race… just in case. Also, you’ll be wearing other tops and layers underneath; you don’t need any additional weight or warmth to be contributed by the jacket.

Your jacket must have a hood. “Hoods are very important,” says Team McCain Adventure Addicts captain Graham Bird. “It keeps the rain from going in the collar and also keeps your head dry and warm.” Depending on the size of the hood, you can wear your mountain bike helmet under or over it. If you’re on foot, a cap will keep the rain out of your eyes.

Jackets not only keep the rain out. “In summer being wet is not such a big deal,” says Jeremy Green. “It is the wind that is the killer. The jacket is more to keep the wind off your wet body than to keep your body dry, because you’ll be sweating inside anyway.”

Rain aside, Jeremy always keeps his jacket packed incase they stop at location exposed to the wind, like at the top of a cliff waiting to abseil. He also has a very lightweight, windproof, splash-proof (not waterproof) shell, which “doesn’t work unless it is a 65km race where the weather is irrelevant and there is no intention to stop other than for an emergency”.

What you wear under the jacket is just as important as the outer layer. Anthony Howes prioritises the management of getting wet rather than trying to stay dry. “Keep moving, keep hydrated and keep eating to stay warm,” he suggests. “A wicking shirt of technical fabric or thermal underwear works as an inner layer – no cotton or wool. These natural fabrics get water logged and become very cold and wet. With my wicking shirts I am still wet from sweating under the jacket but it is a warm sweaty wet and not great for smell, but enough to keep me warm.” He advises heading for a dry place, sheltered from the wind, if you stop for more than ten minutes to rest.

And on your legs?

“I don’t worry about the legs,” says Piers Pirow. “I usually take a waterproof jacket, a P100 fleece top and a 15-litre drybag for the gear in my backpack.”

If it is cold and wet for hours on end, Graham wears thermal tights as a base layer with waterproof pants on top. This combination works well for mountain biking too where wind chill is a big factor, especially on the flats and descents. Jeremy agrees, “Waterproof pants are a necessity for long periods of rain, not to keep you dry, but to keep you warm. You’ll probably be wet from sweat anyway”.

I wish that I had duck feet

When the ground is wet, your feet will be wet. Jeremy and Jacques Booysen like their Seal Skinz waterproof socks. “They work wonders for cold feet on the bike,” Jeremy explains. “But they do fill with water on the river crossings so they’re generally only appropriate for the longer races where you are prepared to strip down for a water crossing and dry off afterwards.”

Ronald Jessop is a man after my own heart. “I take plenty of socks,” he says. “Shoes with quick drying uppers help too and I also pack waterproof plasters to stick on any hot-spots before they turn into blisters. Works for me.”

Alex Pope uses the same strategy. “With regular changes of socks, and diligent support crew drying wet pairs, I avoid foot problems.”

 Beddin’ down

“Sleeping when it is raining is not really an option if you are racing,” says Graham. “It is what the mind wants to do, but you have to just get out there and suck it up! If we do get tired and need to sleep, we prefer to find a warm shelter so that sleep is more beneficial. Out in the open you don’t sleep well, even under a shelter.”

Shelters are usually compulsory gear and they work for rain and dew, but are only worth pitching if you’re going to sleep for at least two hours; afterall, it takes 10-minutes to put up and another ten to take down. Jeremy’s lightweight shelter is too short to completely cover them. “When there’s lots of dew we sleep under the shelter with our feet stuffed into our backpacks. In the rain, this shelter would be disastrous so it isn’t an option unless it’s an emergency. When there’s a strong likelihood of rain we take a complete 3-season tent, even though it weighs two kilograms.”

Sleeping bags, and not bivvy bags, are essential. If you have to sleep, you want to sleep properly, not shivering in a plastic bag. Even so, most teams aim to reach a transition where their support crews have a camp setup, complete with a big tent, warm sleeping bags and hot drinks. But this is not always possible, so you have to be prepared.

Embrace the wet. Manage the cold

Hypothermia is not a nice game. Fortunately, with well-chosen clothing and gear wet conditions will add to your racing experience, not ruin it.

Author: Lisa de Speville | Published in Go Multi Magazine, March/April 2009

What do we require our lights for? For navigation and movement at night, map reading, finding tracks, walking/running/cycling over rough terrain, finding objects (black banner PC’s without lights…) etc. All rather difficult when one cannot see!

Fortunately for us, light technology has been advancing at a rapid rate and the new stuff is making things “easier” for us. However the area remains a potential minefield for the novice and gaining experience comes at a stiff price! Unfortunately one pays for quality – this is ever so true when considering which lights to use.

Three types of lights are of practical use in AR – incandescent (krypton, halogen-type bulbs), LED’s (Light Emitting Diode) and HID (High Intensity Discharge).

Incandescent: Typical examples of these lights are the Silva Orienteering lamps, Petzl Zoom or Duo headlamps, Princeton Tec Solo or Matrix (bulb module) lamps as well as the well-known Mag-Lite handheld range. Included should also be most of the bicycle lights – be that from CatEye, Sigma, NiteRider etc. These lamps use a glass bulb mounted in a reflector, produce a yellowish light, can sometimes be focussed (i.e.Petzl Zoom, Mag-Lite) and have a long “throw” (reach). They are not energy efficient and there is a direct correlation between brightness and battery life – the brighter the light, the shorter the burn time (or the bigger the required battery).

The typical bicycle lights come with rechargeable battery packs and might have up to three bulbs. This allows one to choose between say for example 6, 10 or 20W output. More high tech lights include an electronic dimmer to conserve power on good roads. Bulbs last up to 50 hours or so but can fail without warning (drop it!) so carrying spares are essential.

Author: Coenraad Pool | Photos by Criag Dutton, Bull of Africa 2005

It is important to note that the purpose of the rope is NOT to catch a fall (as is usually the case when ropes are used in the mountains) but to prevent a slip becoming a fall. If the client were to fall out-right, it is unlikely that the guide, with only the security of his feet on already dubious ground, will be able to stand firm. Techniques will be discussed later.

How to Attach the Rope
One end is attached to the client, either by tying-in to a harness, or by means of a bowline around their waist. The other end is, likewise, attached to the guide. Where the rope is longer than the desired distance between client and guide, the following procedure is used to store the excess:

1. The guide loops the rope from his harness over one shoulder and under the other arm at approximately rib-cage height. He may start by either passing the rope up his chest and down his back, or the other way – it is down to personal preference.
2. Take a bite (loop) of rope where it leaves the looping to go to the client, and pass it down on the inside of the loops, through the tie-in point (or the bowline at the waist) and back up and around the bundle.
3. Tie an over-hand knot around the client-side rope and the loop going to and from the harness to prevent tension on the client rope pulling the loops tight around the guide’s neck. Experiment with this to be sure!
4. Use a carabiner to attach the loop coming out of the knot back to the harness or the bowline to prevent the knot coming undone. Care must be taken that the bundle of rope is tight enough to remain neat, but not so tight as to limit the guide’s free movement.

Great. But what length should the rope be?
The answer is… “It depends on the terrain”.
The rope should always be taught between guide and client and they must be close enough to communicate easily. On the other hand, they must be able to move independently around obstacles. It takes experience to get the gap right – go play with a variety of buddies on steep, loose terrain, such as the steep parts of Northcliff Ridge and parts of the Magaliesberg. Generally 5m to 10m is the optimal length of rope on very consistent terrain. Longer lengths may be required when the terrain forces the guide, from time to time, to climb ahead to belay the client.

While short-roping, the gap between guide and client is about 3m to 7m, as is explained below.

The guide will almost always be on the uphill side of the client, or in a particularly firm position. He will lead up hills, follow down them and traverse above the client. Generally, the guide will follow a more difficult path as the client would be given preference on the easy ground.

The guide should hold a small amount (2-3m) of slack (excess rope) in the hand away from the client, while his client-side hand controls tension to the client (a thumb-up hold tends to provide greater gripping power). The slack may either be looped around the hand, or lapped back and forth across (rather than around) the hand. The “official” advantage of the former is that the rope tightens onto the hand if the client starts to pull the rope through the other hand, adding to safety. The “official” advantage of lapping is that it is easier and quicker to control the length of the rope. Practically, it comes down to personal preference.

Guide and client are now moving together with the rope reasonably taut, but not pulling the client off their feet (exact tension must be adjusted to the needs and comfort of each client, given the exact terrain.) Suddenly the client slips. The guide instantly stops, having planted his feet in the best position available in the few tenths of a second available and leans into the hill to prevent being pulled out (but not so much that his feet slip from under him) and pulls hard on the rope with his client-side hand, bringing the client’s slip to a stop.

The guide must be constantly assessing the best path for the client to follow, steering the client and adjusting the length of the rope to achieve this. If the nature of the terrain changes and the guide needs a different total length of rope, he should respond by “dropping” or “picking up” coils from or onto his shoulders. The guide must be super-aware at all times. This includes making the call when it would be too hazardous to short-rope a section thus moving over to full-blown pitched climbing and belaying.

On the rare occasions that the guide must travel at the same level as the client on a traverse (when there is only one possible path) extreme caution must be maintained. The guide and client must keep closer together and the tension must be maintained. If at all possible, the guide must follow the client, so he can better see what is happening so that there is less slack and better directions of pull. A slip must then be turned into a controlled pendulum until the client is below the guide.

I have seen many mistakes made, from trivial to mind-numbingly dangerous. Here are a few examples…

Trivial

• Rope too short, and the guide does not have enough slack to adjust his distance from the client.
• Spacing too small, and guide cannot easily move around obstacles independently from the client.
• Spacing is too large, and the guide has trouble keeping optimal tension and seeing the optimal path for the client.

Significant

• Guide does not anticipate the correct path for the client, and sends them too low or too high, increasing the chances of a fall.
• Rope too tight, tending to pull the client off balance, increasing the chances of a fall and unnerving the client.
• Rope too loose, unnerving the client, leading to increased chances of a slip and allowing the slip the chance to gain momentum.

Downright dangerous

• One team I passed on the Visierskerf race provided a text book case (indeed, a caricature) of how to kill your entire party short-roping. To start with, they had tied a loose slip knot around the client’s waist. If the fall had been held, the client may have sustained serious crushing injuries, but chances were that the knot would have come undone, leaving an embarrassed guide and a screaming (soon to be dead) client. Then, the guide was on the same level as the client – a slip would definitely have become a fall on that terrain, almost certainly pulling the guide down with the client, if the knot had held. The tension on the rope was allowed to vary wildly, from too tight to so loose that the client was almost tripping on it, at which point a fall would be assured if the client slipped. To top it off, they refused any help when it was offered, on the basis that the rope “was just for confidence” – a clear indication that they were completely brain-dead idiots with no unde rstanding of their situation; I kept my team well clear until we could pass without danger and then left them to the vultures.

Tricks of the Trade
There are numerous little tricks of the trade – how to stand, how to walk, what length and tension of rope to use, and so forth. There are, however, some “intermediate” tricks that can be useful.

If the terrain is covered in large, firmly planted boulders, the guide can increase their ease of catching a fall by sitting behind a boulder, or passing the rope around a spike of rock. This usually takes time (as in over a second, including reaction time) but is sometimes useful.

As mentioned earlier, hold the rope with your thumb towards you (“up”) rather than towards the client (“down”) makes it easier to hold tightly. If two people of similar skills are traversing rapidly changing terrain, they can alternate the roles of guide and client to improve safety. Both parties would then carry coils over their shoulders.

Why can’t we use a ski rope?
Any rope you use must be load-rated, which basically means climbing-grade rope.

There are a variety of potential uses. Some typical ones include:

• Attaching things to packs, bikes, and boats (also repair work).
• Setting up towing systems (mainly bikes, but sometimes boats).
• Descending drops that the team doesn’t feel to down-climbing or jumping. Obviously, this is limited to 10m drops, assuming the last guy is happy to go big without the rope. If nothing else, you can lower the packs.
• Short-roping nervous members on hazardous ground. If you’re going to try this, PLEASE learn to do it properly.
• Potentially useful in crossing narrow, rushing streams – but be very careful!

In Conclusion
Short-roping is a technique that will seldom be used in AR, but one that can make passage much safer and less traumatic and hence less tiring and faster, across some terrain. It would be classified as an advanced skill and requires much practice. That said, with sufficient practice and careful thought, even relative novices can turn this knowledge into a useful, usable tool in their AR toolbox.

Roping-up image taken from Gareth Hattingh’s book, “The Climber’s Handbook”. It’s an excellent book to purchase.

Author: Dylan Morgan

Trail, or “off-road”, shoes have a tread more chunky and aggressive than road shoes to increase traction over a variety of surfaces (rock, grass, sand, mud, gravel). The firm upper is usually darker in colour (to hide the dirt!) with reinforced stitching for durability and protective toe bumpers. They generally have a lower-profile (you gain less height and your foot sits closer to the ground) than road shoes to prevent ankle twists. Most shoes have a midsole plate to protect your sole from injury and bruising (thorn penetration, rocky surfaces). Overall trail shoes have a more supportive and protective structure; and cushioning is reduced, as off-road surfaces are softer than tar.

Fit
I can put my foot in a shoe and know immediately whether I’m going to like it, without taking it for a run. Things that press the red-light button are seams and midsole bumps where they don’t feel natural; constrictions around the forefoot, just behind the toes; too little space in the toebox to wiggle my toes a little; and too much space in the heel cup, such that every time I take a step I can feel my heel sliding up and down. Running and trail shoes do not need to be broken in.

Look for a secure fit in the heel and arch, with more room in the forefoot and toe area. Remember that lacing also makes a big difference to fit so lace the shoes properly in the store (loose laces lower down adds forefoot space). Move your foot into a downhill position to feel whether the rear heel tab jabs into your Achilles and your toes whack the toe box.

Although brands have a reputation for fit (narrow: – Brooks, Nike, Asics and Puma; wider toe box: Adidas and Saucony; accommodating: Montrail, Salomon, New Balance), do not rely on rumours or recommendations from friends. Try all of them for yourself. Girls, women’s shoes generally have a narrow heel with narrow longer, slimmer toe box; and the sizes usually stop at UK8. Don’t be scared to try on men’s shoes – I’ve been running in them for years.

Line up all the shoes that pass this foot-in-feel test and then consider the following.

Neutral vs stability
Most trail shoes are neutral, with mild midsole stability elements to prevent ankle twists. They are not full-blown stability shoes. When you run off-road, your feet need to roll inward and outward according to the surface. For this reason trail shoes do not try to limit your foot’s movement with hard-core stability posts. Most inner soles can be removed to accommodate orthotics; but not all. Check before buying.

Laces and lacing
Salomon has their distinct Quicklace System; most other brands use traditional lacing setups – with slight variations in angle, length, number of eyelets and eyelet positioning. There are also different types of laces: flat, bubble, rope-like, elliptical, round… Fortunately you can change the laces if you don’t like the originals.

Sole (midsole and outsole)
Aggressive tread patterns are most suitable if you regularly run on single track, rock, mud and sand, surfaces where traction is needed. Rocky surfaces are a little different; softer outsole materials give better grip – but they wear more quickly than harder treads. So it is a toss-up between traction and durability.

If your regular route takes you over rocky ground, you’ll need a forefoot protection from a midsole plate, a good toe bumper and aggressive tread. On forest trails shoes with good cushioning, traction and stability are top priority.

The distances you run should also be considered. Over long distances – like off-road ultra runs, adventure races and rogaines – you’ll appreciate good cushioning and support. The downside is that softer midsoles and complex support systems cost a few more pennies and they don’t last as long as less expensive shoes with stiff midsoles and less cushioning. Think about this when you’re budgeting for 1-4 pairs of shoes a year at R700-R1200 each.

Lighter, low-profile shoes with aggressive outsoles are more suited to fast, agile runners.

Upper
Off-road shoes with lots of mesh let in sand and grit. But they’re cooler and more breathable and they dry quickly.

Look for shoes with little or no leather overlays on the upper. Goretex versions of shoes are available; but remember that although Goretex keeps dew out, it also keeps sweat in.

The toe bumper is another important feature, especially if you regularly run over rocky terrain where toe stubs are likely. Some bumpers are barely there – others are too firm and broad.

There is no best brand or best shoe. With experience you’ll learn about your preferences for terrain and conditions, which will make later decisions easier. And even then, forget brands and what your friend says. Let your feet choose.

Author: Lisa de Speville | Published in Go Multi Magazine, Nov/Dec 2008

Later I asked her, “How come you’ve never entered a race?”

“It’s all the equipment. I don’t have any of it,” she replied.

Her perception is a common one that prevents many from progressing in AR. Adventure racing is not only about expedition-style races that take five days and require shipping bikes, boxes, kayaks and specialised clothing across land and sea.

The majority of events on the adventure racing calendar take no more than 2-6-hours to complete and for 99.9% of them all you need is a:

Author: Lisa de Speville | Published in Go Multi Magazine, June/July 2007

Items marked with an asterisk (*) may not be required. Check the specific equipment lists for each event.

SPRINT (15-35km) EVENTS

Clothing
Trail Shoes, Socks, Shorts, Cycle shorts, Shirt, Shades, Cap, Cycle gloves

Winter Clothing
Thermal top, Long warm leggings, Windproof/waterproof jacket, Warm headwear, Warm gloves

Personal Equipment
Gear box, Mountain Bike, Helmet, Hydration bladder or Water bottle, Water/Electrolyte fluid, Sunblock, Food, Backpack*, Whistle*, Space blanket*, Knife*, Life jacket (PFD)*

Team Equipment
Bike tools, Spare tubes, Puncture repair kit, First Aid Kit*

SHORT (40-100km) EVENTS

Clothing
Trail Shoes, Socks, Shorts, Cycle shorts, Shirt, Cycle gloves, Shades, Cap

Winter/Cold weather Clothing
Thermal top, Long warm leggings, Windproof/waterproof jacket, Warm headwear, Thermal Gloves

Team Equipment
Bike tools, Spare tubes, Puncture repair kit, First Aid Kit, Waterproof map bag, Compass, 10m rope (>7mm diameter)*, Boats*, Shelter*

Personal Equipment
Gear box, Mountain Bike, Helmet, Hydration bladder and/or Water bottle, Electrolyte drink, Sunblock, Food, Backpack, Whistle, Space blanket, Knife, Headlamp, Spare batteries, Front bike light, Back flashing bike light, Dry bag*, Life jacket (PFD)*, Paddle*, 2 x carabiners*

CLASSIC (>150km) Events

Clothing
Trail Shoes, Socks, Shorts, Cycle shorts, Shirt, Shades, Cap, Cycle gloves

Winter/Cold weather Clothing
Thermal top, Polartec top, Long warm leggings, Windproof & waterproof jacket, Waterproof pants, Warm headwear, Thermal Gloves

Team Equipment
Bike tools, Spare tubes, Puncture repair kit, First Aid Kit, Waterproof map bag, Compass, Altimeter, 10m rope (>7mm diameter)*, Emergency flare*, Boats*, Shelter*

Personal Equipment
Gear box, Mountain Bike, Helmet, Hydration bladder and/or Water bottle, Electrolyte drink, Sunblock, Food, Backpack, Whistle, Space blanket, Knife, Headlamp, Spare batteries, Front bike light, Back flashing bike light, Dry bag, Life jacket (PFD)*, Paddle*, 2 x carabiners*, Climbing harness*, Descending device*, Prusik loop*.

Author: Lisa de Speville

In summer you can get away with having less stuff, obviously needing warmer gear for winter. The following list is a basic equipment guide.

Absolute Essentials – Clothing

• Trail Shoes – Expect to pay R700 – R1200 for a good pair of shoes. Don’t go just on word of mouth. Try out different brands and styles selecting the one that feels the most comfortable.
• Socks – You can never have enough. I’m probably one of the few who is blissfully happy to get socks for xmas. The key features to look for are: seamless toes, moisture wicking and labeled left and right socks.
• Shorts – Lycra or a quick drying, non-chaffe fabric.
• Cycle Shorts – You’ll be spending many hours in the saddle, so get a pair of padded cycling shorts.
• Long leggings – Lycra works well. No chaffing and comfortable. Suitable when the temperature drops.
• Tops – Go for light, moisture-wicking quick-drying fabrics.
• Long Sleeve Thermal top – Not only used in winter, a long sleeve thermal top will keep you warm even when you’re wet. Look for thermal, insulating and moisture wicking. Get 2 so you can wear one and keep the other in a ziploc bag in your pack at all times.
• Outer Shell – An outer shell should be very light-weight, waterproof/resistant, breathable and very importantly, wind-proof.
• Head Wear – Caps are very important. If you’ve got sensitive skin, remember to get a cap with neck protection.
• Shades – They protect your eyes from the sun’s glare off water, sand etc. and from flying insects and dirt.

Absolute Essentials – Personal Gear

• Back pack – You’ll need a total volume of 20l – 30l. Great features to look out for are: Chest straps, waist straps, bungi cord straps on the front, mesh side pockets, a separate compartment for your hydration bladder, a pouch or two on the front for putting in things you may need to access regularly, padded shoulder straps, tags on the zips (easy to open your pack with frozen fingers) and a waterproof cover.
• Hydration System – You need at least a 2l bladder. Also carry one or two 750ml water bottles.
• Headlamp – Try them on in the shop, bounce around and make sure that it is comfortable. LED headlamps are brilliant. They’re light in weight and on batteries. Try to co-ordinate with your team-mates so that you all use the same kind of batteries. If you go for halogen bulb, you get good light but much less battery life. It’s a trade-off.
• Mountain Bike – Seek good counsel from more than one bicycle store before spending your pennies.
• Cycle Helmet – Must be ANSI approved. No helmet, no ride.
• Cycle Gloves – Also useful for abseiling.
• Bicycle lamp – Shop around. There are quite a few good brands and models on the market. You may also need to buy a blinking red backlight.

Absolute Essentials – Compulsory Personal Gear

• Whistle – Very important! Always keep your whistle on you – and not in your pack. It’s not much help if you fall down a hill, your pack gets ripped off your back and you haven’t got it with you.
• Safety Blanket – In an emergency this little blanket will keep you warm.
• Knife – You never know when a knife will come in handy. Don’t go for one too small. You may need to get a good grip on the knife with frozen fingers.

Absolute Essentials – Team

• Bivvy Bag/Sleeping bag – Bivvy bags are great for keeping you dry, but are not much help to keep you warm. They’re not always necessary if you have a sleeping bag. In SA the max rated sleeping bag you’ll need will be -10C rated. On the down vs. synthetic side… It’s up to you. I believe it takes alot of wetting to get feathery clumps these days. Race directors will issue their requirements in the race information. You usually need 2 sleeping bags per team in summer.
• Cycle Spares – You each need to carry at least one spare tube. Between the team you’ll need: lube, pump, puncture repair kit, chain breaker, allen key set, valve spanner and a spoke spanner.
• First-aid – You are required to have a team first aid kit.
• Certification – In longer events first aid and ropes certification may be required. Ensure you’re in-date.
• Lumo-stick or Glo-Toob for marking your position at night should you need to make yourself visible to rescue personnel.

Winter Necessities

• Long warm leggings – Look for leggings with a lycra-like outside and warm, insulating stuff on the inside. Lycra on the outside prevents icy wind sneaking through and blackjacks from attaching.
• Warm Top – When it’s really cold you’ll benefit from a P100 sweater. Polartec 100 is light, breathable and will keep you very warm, especially under an outershell.
• Head Gear – You lose most of your body heat from your head so insulate your pip with a beanie.
• Gloves – Will keep your hands warm when hiking and on the bike.

Very Useful

• Gaitors – Available in 1/2 leg or anklet lengths, keep sand, grass seeds and other trash out of your socks and shoes and protect your shins from the itchy-scratchy plants when you’re bundu-bashing.
• Disposable camera – Though we always forget to take photos, it is great to have to record some great places and memories.

May be Required

• Boats – These are often supplied but if they arn’t then the type of craft may be specified. Always remember not to go for a boat beyond your level of competence.
• PFD/Life Jacket – These are provided in most cases.
• Paddle – These are also provided in most cases. You may prefer to bring along your wing paddles. In some events you may be restricted from using them

Author: Lisa de Speville